Echo Valley Guest Ranch lies in a unique, bio-diverse area of the Cariboo Region. With a continuum of four distinct terrain types surrounding the ranch, one cannot help but wonder at the natural forces which helped to shape this environment. From British Columbia's earliest tectonic collisions that occurred nearly 250 million years ago, to the more recent periods of glaciation, these natural forces have molded the Cariboo's landscape and ecosystems into what they are today.

Tectonic Collisions

British Columbia's history began nearly 181 million years ago. Up until that time, Canada was part of an enormous supercontinent (comprised of most of Earth's landmass), and its western coastline ran southward from the present location of Dawson Creek to Calgary. The portion of land that would eventually become British Columbia consisted of a series of volcanic island chains interspersed with deep ocean trenches possessing limestone rich floors. In fact, more than 75% of the province was originally submerged beneath the Pacific Ocean. For millions of years the coastline of this supercontinent remained relatively peaceful, as the Pacific Ring of Fire lay several hundred miles off shore.

And then, inexplicably, the supercontinent began to move. The portion that was North America began to drift westward, crashing into the pacific plates with a slow, relentless force. Normally when such a collision occurs, the ocean plate--usually composed of basalt-subducts (dives under) the lighter granite continental plate. As it is pushed further into the Earth's mantel, the basalt plate will melt and the resulting magma will generally be redeposited on the surface through volcanic activity. In this case, however, the two plates stuck together, and instead of subducting the pacific plates caused the sheets of continental granite to buckle and snap, heaving massive slabs of stratified rock some 30 km thick into a chain of towering mountains. This initial collision lasted 25 million years. But although it was in slow motion, this impact nevertheless had impressive results: the highest range of mountains in North America, the Rocky Mountains, was formed.

Within 20 million years of that first impact, the next major collision took place, this time centered over central British Columbia. Subsequent collisions would occur repeatedly for the next 130 million years, and would eventually result in raising the remainder of BC from the ocean Floor. The next impact produced the Cariboo Mountains, the first major set of peaks west of the Rockies, and set the stage for the third collision.

West of the Cariboo Mountains was a large limestone shelf, situated in relatively shallow water and overlooking a deep ocean trench. The course of millions of years had allowed for sufficient precipitate to accumulate on the shelf to produce a layer of limestone some 5 km thick. When the third impact began to slowly distort the ocean floor in that area, severe earthquakes struck the shelf causing massive chunks of limestone to break off and fall, tumbling into the darkness of the neighboring underwater trench. (Millions of years later, these isolated clusters of limestone scattered throughout the Cariboo would puzzle geologist for decades.) The limestone shelf, meanwhile, began to buckle under the enormous pressures of the tectonic collision, and gradually it rose upwards, forming the Marble mountain range.

After a lengthy sequence of collisions, the continental shelf finally slowed to a near halt against the ocean floor. The series of impacts, however, had lifted the edge of the continental granite into a final great range of mountains, towering over the coast of British Columbia. The Coast Range remains Canada's last and youngest chain of mountains-they are still growing at approximately 1-3 cm per year.

A Land of Ice

Around 150 000 years ago, a tremendous climate change began to slowly manifest itself across the face of the planet. Over the course of the next thousand years, Earth's mean temperature declined by 5 degrees Celsius. The current explanation for this climatic shift suggests that the Earth experiences cyclic variations in its orbit and in the tilt of its axis. When these slight alterations shift toward a stronger tilt and a more elliptic path around the sun, winters become longer and the overall temperature will drop. Although a temperature change of five degrees doesn't seem very significant, the effects were dramatic: with a lower annual summer temperature, the winter snowpacks didn't melt as much, resulting in increasingly larger snowpacks every year. Eventually, the snow accumulated to the point where its own weight began to compact it into ice. And as its weight continued to increase, gravity overcame their tenuous hold to the sides of mountains, and these massive deposits of ice began to move, ponderously sliding down from their high mountain valleys. Like giant rivers of ice, dirt and snow, these glaciers expanded and retreated in accordance to the seasons, but still maintained their relentless slide downhill. And as they moved, the glaciers rearranged the landscape, plowing up immense amounts of soil, carving valleys and altering the shape of mountains. On several occasions, a layer of ice-the Cordilleran Ice Sheet, composed of thousands of inter-connecting glaciers--covered the entire province of BC.

Over the last 100 000 years the Earth's temperature has fluctuated, alternately promoting and inhibiting the spread of glaciers across the Northern and Southern hemispheres. When the temperature drops (sometimes for upwards of 25 000 years), we call it a "glacial period". Alternately, we call the warms spells (which could also last thousands of years) are termed "interglacial periods". Scientists have pointed out the possibility that, since it has only been approximately 10 000 years since the last ice age, that we could currently be experiencing an interglacial period.

Since each successive glacial period tends to wipe out most of the evidence of the preceding ice ages, geologists can only make educated guesses as what changes each individual glacial period may have caused to the landscape. However, the effects of the last series of glaciers have remained unchanged for the last 10 000 years, and are readily visible. For instance, most valleys in BC are glaciated, bearing the telltale bowl shaped cross-section that distinguishes them from V-shaped non-glaciated valleys. In other places, large, isolated boulders or mounds of soil stand where they were deposited by the retreating glaciers.

But perhaps the most striking legacy of the ice ages are the benchlands found along riverbanks in parts of North America. The Fraser River, running through the Cariboo region of BC, is an excellent example of this geological formation. During the last ice age, large glaciers slid down either side of the Fraser canyon and effectively blocked it in several places, forming enormous dams that backed up the river for dozens of miles. As the Fraser flowed into the resulting lakes, the silt from the river settled to the bottom, and over the centuries, it accumulated into a bed of loose sandy soil some 500 meters thick. When the glaciers finally melted and the river burst through the icy dams, it quickly eroded through the sandy lake floor, carving deep trenches into the otherwise flat valley bottoms. Today, these flat benchlands rise high above the Fraser along many parts of its length.

Our Four Biomes

Biome: Any particular environment containing slightly different-but nevertheless compatible-ecosystems.

The great geological and climatic forces of the past have greatly affected the environment of the Cariboo region. The Cariboo Mountains in the east and the Marble Range in the west are both the result of tectonic activity, and both have been glaciated numerous times. Since most environments depend heavily on elevation, these two chains of mountains contain several unique biomes, ranging from semi-desert (along the Fraser), to boreal forests (in most of the valley bottoms), to mountainous (above the tree line near the mountain tops). In between these two ranges lies the flat, glaciated interior plateau, a former volcanic plain that is interspersed with dense boreal/montane forests and rolling grasslands. Echo Valley is situated where all four biomes connect, and as a result, numerous activities specific to each of the individual environments are offered here.

To the west of Echo Valley, the brown, muddy Fraser carves a deep gorge through the surrounding countryside. Along these arid benchlands exists a thriving desert biome, one of the northern most desert environments in North America. While the desert fades into a montane forest further up the sides of the canyon, near the Fraser it is simply too dry for trees to flourish. The aridity is the result of a number of factors, including sandy soil (which prevents good water retention), low precipitation (approximately 30 cm per year), and high "evapotranspiration" (the combination of water loss through direct evaporation and from transpiration through plants). Because of this lack of moisture the desert plants are usually drought-tolerant, featuring such adaptations as light-colored, small, thick, or waxy leaves, large root systems, and water storage systems (such as cactus stems). Some plants, like the common bunchgrass, can tolerate drought simply because their leaves contain a great deal of dry support tissue-rather than wilting like most grass would, they simply become dormant. Plants common along the Fraser benchlands include sagebrush, bunchgrass, a variety of small cacti, and cheatgrass. Like the plants of this biome, the animals have also adapted: they are often light-colored, and blend in well with their surroundings, and most are active either in the mornings or evenings to avoid the heat. Animals that you might see along the Fraser benchlands include California Bighorn Sheep, coyotes, bullsnakes, fourteen different varieties of bats, and Blackwidow Spiders. But occasionally, the animals from the montane forest above will filter down into the benchlands.

Echo Valley is situated in the midst of a montane forest, which marks the transition between the desert along the Fraser and the higher alpine forests. Although this environment is considered to be compatible with the boreal forest biome, there are significant differences between them. For instance, while the boreal forest is exemplified by tall dark stands of spruce, larch, and fir in a wet, boggy environment, the montane forests consist primarily of pine, Douglas fir, and the odd stand of deciduous trees, located in areas of greater aridity. Nevertheless, certain areas around Echo Valley fit the description of a boreal forest accurately enough for us to consider our montane forest as part of the boreal forest biome. This part of the Cariboo environment is rich with wildlife: white tail deer, moose, black bears, coyotes, cougars and wolves are some of the larger animals which live here. A rich variety of birds also inhabit the region, (over 200 different species), including the Western Tanager (one of the most colorful songbirds in the province), the Solitary Vireo, the Pileated Woodpecker, and grouse, among others. In the streams and lakes surrounding the ranch, rainbow trout abound. All in all, this montane forest is one of the most bio-diverse regions of the province.

North and northwest of Echo Valley, the rolling, forest-shrouded hills gradually give way to pockets of open grasslands. Given the relative aridity of the area, these large, open meadows are typically green in the springtime (when there is an abundance of water from melting snow) and progressively fade into yellow as the summer heat and lack of rain begins to take its toll. Originally, it is presumed, these grasslands were much larger, perhaps encompassing most of the area surrounding the Marble Range. Two factors have led to its gradual assimilation by the forest. The first is, of course, the warming trend that has continued since the last Ice Age. Trees tend to be less hearty than grasses, and the warmer weather has permitted more tree seedlings to flourish than was previously possible. The second factor involves our interfering with natural forest fires. Prior to this century, lightning strikes during the summer would spark grass and forests fires (which we now know is nature's method of cleansing the environment). Dead branches, pine needles, and other brush collected on the ground would be burnt, and the resulting ash served as an excellent fertilizer for the next generation of trees. However, in the grasslands, the fires also helped destroy young trees that were encroaching from the forests. With modern technology, we typically fight uncontrolled grass and forest fires, resulting in more young trees surviving on the ever-nearer borders of the grasslands. Due to their relatively small size, however, the plants and animals of these open fields are very similar to that of the montane forest. Bunchgrass, and a variety of small bushes provide cover for the smaller forest animals (such as mice, coyotes, grouse, and marmots), and occasionally larger animals such as deer and bears will venture into these grasslands. Although they are gradually shrinking, these grasslands still provide an excellent contrast to the forested landscape surrounding them.

To the east of Echo Valley, the Marble Range rises majestically from the surrounding flatlands. Although smaller than either the Coast Mountains to the west or the Rocky Mountains to the east, the Marble Range is nevertheless impressive in its own right, and contains the only alpine environment in the nearby area. The majority of the mountains in the range extend above the tree line, and their exposed limestone peaks offer a superb niche for the plants and animals of the alpine biome. Three "lines" exist below the peaks themselves, imaginary boundaries separating successively higher environmental zones from each other. The first and lowest of these is called the forest line, where continuous forest becomes intermixed with subalpine meadows. Above this is the treeline, the upper limit of erect trees, and higher still lies the krummholz line, the upper limit of stunted mats of conifers. Above this altitude, the summers are too short and cool for trees to harden new growth, and the winter winds are so strong that they dry out exposed twigs. As a result, most vegetation in this uncompromising environment is ground-hugging, to avoid the killing wind. Small, hearty flowers, dwarf willows, mosses, and numerous lichens grow well in sheltered cracks or while clinging precariously to tiny rock ledges. Few large animals exist in the higher alpine environments of the Marble Range, however. While an occasional deer, bear, or bighorn sheep will venture up out of the trees, the alpine biome is typically known for its smaller denizens. Ptarmigans, marmots, mice, and numerous hawks, ravens, and other birds reside on the high shale covered slopes of these limestone mountains. But while the wildlife may not be as abundant or diverse as that of the montane forest below, the alpine biomes offer some of the most breath-taking vistas in the province.

The Ranch

Echo Valley Ranch & Spa is located in a unique environment, rich with natural history. Surrounded by a continuum of four distinct biomes, the ranch is able to offer a variety of "soft adventure" activities that suit each of the individual types of terrain. Near the Fraser River, our proficient guides can take guests on a challenging trek from the montane forests down the canyon wall into the arid benchlands of the Fraser. There, high above the river, a replication of a natives' teepee village has been established. Guests can spend the night in the teepees, and enjoy a traditional salmon dinner and a bannock breakfast prepared by the chief of the native reserve. Those seeking to find their fortunes can try their luck at gold panning-and perhaps strike it rich! Further up the Fraser, guests can experience the thrill of a lifetime on an exhilarating whitewater river rafting expedition. High above the river, in the open, light-filled woodland of the montane forest, guests can stroll amongst the lodgepole pines and the ancient towering firs. The ranch offers daily horseback rides through this landscape, and our licensed fishing guides can take guests to local lakes and streams to try their hand at catching our local rainbow trout. For those interested in larger fish-or just wishing to sightsee--the ranch can fly guests to isolated mountain lakes in our private amphibious turbo-beaver plane. And speaking of flying, our resident falcon trainer is also a skilled amateur bird watcher. Any guest with an interest in ornithology can accompany him on birding expeditions through all four of the local biomes. And last but not least, our alpine adventures include a rigorous hike to the peak of Mount Bowman (the largest mountain in the Marble Range at 7350 feet elevation), and a four day pack trip by horse through the surrounding area, culminating with a trip onto Wildhorse Mountain in the heart of the Marble Range. Echo Valley can offer these unique and exciting activities because of its easy access to four distinct environments. The ranch allows you to experience most of the province's biomes at one location. Come and enjoy it.